Visit to Long Island, Bahamas

A few months ago, my beau and I took a trip with friends to Long Island, Bahamas.
Although my beau had been numerous times, and our friends were from there, this visit was a first for me.  Long Island is aptly named - the island is approximately 80 miles in length and only 4 miles at its widest point.  Long Island is south of the islands of the Exumas, where I live (and it's split by the Tropic of Cancer!), but it is only a short ride in a small plane.

Our friend - with her cat and dog! - in the small plane en route to Long Island.

Long Island boasts several airports.  Due to our pilot's need for a quick turnaround, we landed at the northernmost airport, Stella Maris.  A friend picked us up, and the long drive south to our destination made for a perfect tour.  They narrated as we drove along - cat, dog and all.  Nearing our intended neck of the woods, we stopped for a cold drink and snack.  This popular bar is literally next to the road in an open air thatched hut.  Perfect atmosphere and delicious fresh conch salad!

Cold drink at the ready, awaiting conch salad.

Squeezing sour into the bowl of conch.

Eventually, we reached our destination, the lovely Winter Haven in Clarence Town, where spring was in full bloom.

Our charming blue room.

Gorgeous view from our room's patio.

I fell in love with the outdoor bar, overlooking the ocean.  The bar was covered with old pictures.  Because the Bahamas is a relatively small country - roughly 350,000 people in the entire country - many people know each other and the rest have only a small degree of separation.  The result is that my beau ALWAYS knows SOMEONE wherever we go.  Plus, from years of sailing and other connections, Long Island and the island where I live have close relationships, so even I knew quite a few of the people in the photos.

My favorite spot.

I spent hours in the shade of the bar, feeling the cool breeze and listening to the waves crashing below.  One lazy afternoon, the owners and our friends whipped up a batch of conch salad for another great seaside snack and cleaned some fish for later.  

Despite all the other wonderful attributes, what I loved best about this spot was the thatch roof on the bar.  Thatch around the Bahamas, made from the dried tops of certain palm fronds, is typically nailed to the wood frame.  This one, however, was individually hand-tied.  The result, as viewed from the underside or ceiling, looked like pure art to me.  Of course, you get what you pay for - this process is far more labor intensive and, therefore, expensive.  I wonder how long it would take me to tie . . .

Beautiful hand-tied thatch.

Close-up.

Over the next several days, we proceeded to relax and explore.  Lots of book-reading, a little pool time, visiting tourist spots, checking out all towns near and far, visiting other friends along the way, bar-hopping, checking out home-building and farms and anything else we came across.

Our first tourist stop was to Dean's Blue Hole, the deepest blue hole in the WORLD, dropping to a depth of 660 feet.

From the beach, the area right around Dean's Blue Hole.

I didn't get in the water, much less go even a foot into the deep hole!  But it was cool to see.

The actual hole is directly behind me, by the platform.

Although not a "tourist attraction," we also enjoyed visiting our friend's family farm.

Hogs at our friend's family farm.

Goats and sheep, too!

Slop!  Suppertime.

 In a different area, cows and sheep.

 

 And pigs.

As we drove along the (long) island, exploring over several days, we often stopped at various beaches.  I was impressed that the water was just as multi-hued and clear as the water around my home island, and the sand was a soft white, too.

One of many pretty beaches.

Ocean water as pretty as home - a rarity!

Like our home island, Long Island - and certain of its communities, especially - has a long history of boat-building and sailboat racing.  In fact, the two champion sailboats raced by my beau and others at Regatta, were originally built in Long Island.  Our visit was a few weeks prior to Regatta, so we enjoyed seeing final boat/race preparations by Long Islanders.

Beau checking out one of the A-Class boats, about to be painted.

We enjoyed dinners and night life back at Winter Haven in Rowdy Boys bar and restaurant.  Delicious, delicious, delicious.  And even a little impromptu dancing one night!

Restaurant/Bar, as seen from the ocean side.

Perhaps my favorite part of the whole trip was the unexpected emergence of thousands of land crabs and my experience hunting them down!

Just one of MANY.

We had a delightful trip, and I enjoyed seeing another island and spending a fun time with friends in a beautiful setting.

Farewell, Long Island, until we meet again.

Regatta Photo Tour

My Dearest Better Lifers, thanks for your patience as I get caught up after a whirlwind regatta!

As you know, I've had Regatta Fever and have been posting Champion Sailboat Journals, Sailing Videos Clips and more.  Finally, I have sifted through more than 600 personal photographs of the race week to cull them to a far-more-manageable 59 to share with you.  These pics capture the essence of an incredible week.  Of course, NOTHING can convey the excitement, adrenaline, pride and sheer pleasure of being there, but I hope to give you a taste.

Just one picture of many you'll see in the Facebook photo journal.

Better Life Facebook fans got a sneak peek of the pictures.  (Join us by going to the Blog's Facebook page and click to "Like" the Facebook Page!)  It seemed an easier way to post so many photos, and I also wanted to give an early preview treat to those of you who follow the Blog on Facebook and Twitter.

So, today's blog post is a compilation of photo journal excerpts from the race week for you.  All pictures have captions accompanying them, which you'll see if you open the photos individually.  Start your photo tour here! (via www.facebook.com/IslandBlog)

Now that Regatta has officially come to a close, I am back to island living:  going out for junkanoo drums and chicken souse during election celebration; mopping up from floods after three solid days of rain; battling the mosquitoes that are on the attack after the rains; pulling ticks off my little island dog; cleaning house; cooking meals; doing laundry; catching up on emails and writing projects; dealing with taxes, doctors, health insurance, bill-paying, family requests and the usual "life stuff" that follows us to every corner of the world; catching up with friends near and far; planning summer activities for local children; and always, always, always taking time to admire the peaceful surroundings and remind myself how lucky I am and to keep Choosing the Better Life every single day!  

Have a great weekend, friends.

Return from Regatta & Sailing Video

Hellooooooo, Better Lifers!  I've missed you!  

Regatta was wonderful, and I'll fill you in soon.  Weather was pretty tricky - the same front that saturated Florida also doused the Bahamas.  Thankfully, Mother Nature granted enough of a respite that the boats were able to race, but then she kicked in again and delayed our return by several days.  Upon my return, I was greeted with a flooded downstairs in my own home.  Thankfully, my visiting mother had stanched the tide.  I helped with the cleanup and enjoyed the remaining days of her visit.  

It's also been hectic around here as passions run high for the Bahamian national election which takes place today.  Campaigning has been at a fevered pitch.  In this instance, I'm glad that I CAN'T vote and am able to remain peacefully neutral!  

Now, I'm wading through 600+ photographs to cull them down to share the Regatta experience with you.  Meanwhile, here's a video treat . . .

Never seen a Bahamian sloop sail?  Never been to a national regatta?  Never bounced along in the chase boat in the heart of the action?  This will give you a taste of it all!

I remain silent on the video, hoping you could hear the men calling out to one another on the boat.  But, the camera didn't pick that up - voices must have been carried away by the strong winds, which you DO hear.  This was taken during a practice sail on the last day (Saturday, April 28) of the series race.  It was choppy, windy and cloudy, so the typically-turquoise water of the harbor looks dark, too.

The chase boat follows along in case the sailboat needs anything.  (E.g., switch sail size, add or remove lead ballast, etc.)  Once the race starts, the chase boat can't pass anything back and forth, but we stay nearby to follow the action and be available in case anything happens.

What you'll see is a classic Bahamian sloop, all wooden hand-construction, 28 feet on deck, with a 60 foot mast and large boom, the largest A-Class type.  The sailors are all Bahamian, except for the maximum of four foreigners.  The man at the stern (back) is working the main sail and talking to the man just in front of him, the skipper who controls the tiller and captains the boat.  The man standing at the bow (front) is the bowman, the eyes of the boat who calls back to the Captain what he sees so they can strategize.  The other men have various roles, too.  Most apparent in the video are the men shifting their weight on the pry - the long board sticking off the side of the boat - to serve as human ballast and make adjustments as the race proceeds.

You may notice that only men are on this boat.  While that is still the dominant gender in Bahamian sailing, women crew sometimes, too.  Our local C-Class boat even boasts a champion female skipper.

My favorite part of this clip is that it shows you how the sailboats tack, or make a turn.  Here, the boat is on a starboard tack - the wind is coming from the right (starboard) side.  When the captain gives the command, the crew slacks the sail, slides the pry to the next side, swings the boom over, catches the wind in the sail again and the men scramble out on the pry to balance out on the boat.  This is a pretty calm tack.  Sometimes it can be a fierce scramble, especially during a race if another boat is right there.  Exciting stuff!

Have a wonderful day, and I'll share more with you soon.

Regatta Farewell

Dearest Readers, consider this my TEMPORARY farewell.  Regatta fever continues.  Now my adrenalin is really racing as we are about to set sail!  Literally.  We are leaving on a friend’s sailboat and leisurely headed down to the Regatta.  (My family is visiting and taking care of the house and Angel, and I’ll be delighted to spend more time together upon my return.)

I won’t bother taking my computer with me, and I don’t have any mobile gadgets other than a very basic cell phone.  Upon leaving the States, I gave up the old Blackberry!  While Bahamians also have all the latest iphones, ipads, etc., part of my Better Life is controlling myself against the lure of constant-internet-everything.  So, while I’d love to update you periodically from the middle of it all, I will remain unplugged and “in the moment” and just enjoy it!  Of course, I’ll be snapping photos like crazy and will fill you in upon my return.  Since I’m going to be unplugged, any new comments you make won’t post until my return.  Thank you for your patience, and I’ll certainly respond then.

Have a wonderful couple of weeks and I’ll talk to you early May!  Hugs and Better Life blessings to each of you!

At Home With A Champion Sailboat

Regatta fever continues!  While I ready myself for the trip, I thought you might enjoy some journal excerpts from our local sailboat from earlier this year . . .

Tuesday, January 3, 2012

Gently, I bob in the turquoise waters of my home in the out islands of the Bahamas.  All 28 on-deck feet of my wooden hull bask in the new year’s sun, while my seven foot draw drifts on a single keel below and my 60 foot mast stands regally above.  The massive canvas sheet which serves as my mainsail is drying out on land nearby.  Thanks to my caring and competent crew, I am securely tied to the government dock, and I float above conch shells, small fish and the occasional nurse shark.  I am resting after stretching my sea legs over the holidays.  I raced four times over new year’s weekend – winning, every time!

The first three races were a series in the annual local regatta.  I sailed, along with my ever-present-contender sister boat from here.  We were also joined this year by another competitive A-Class sailboat.  What a delightful challenge!  This annual regatta is a more relaxed race because the purpose is to give all of the holiday visitors a taste of Bahamian sloop racing, even hosting visitors as guest crew on all three A-Class sailboats.  However, even “relaxed” races are taken seriously by Bahamian sailors, and we raced our hearts out.  Our guest crews performed well, and everyone had a great deal of fun on a gorgeous day.  My captain also took a lot of teasing about me being so fast.  “Do you have a motor in there?”  “Why don’t you take it just a little bit easy on the other boats?”  We just smile and know that we sail as best we can sail, every single time, in the great tradition of the great captains that charted the course of Bahamian sloop racing.

A few days later, I raced again, this time with visiting boats in the local New Year’s Day Cruising Regatta.  For this race, I was the only Bahamian sloop, racing against other sailboats – 20 foot to 80 foot – and even some catamarans since monohull and multihull vessels race together in this unique local Cruising Regatta.  Two especially beautiful sailboats provided some excitement with a near-collision on the start line – yikes! – but the skilled captains and crew averted catastrophe.  After that, the race was fairly straight-forward.  It was a cloudy day, but the winds were just right for my large sail.  Since humans comprise a large percentage of my ballast, we have them stacked up on the wooden pries perched off my side, hanging on for dear life, and then scrambling to the other side every time we tack.  And when I am on a strong reach and keeling hard, oh how my crew flies high in the air at the end of the pry.  Of course, when winds fall out suddenly, these fine folks often get dunked into the sea until I get myself righted.  

During this particular race, sailors were spared and mostly dry except for a few dangling legs.  Your own Better Life Blogger participated in her first race and clung tightly to my pry.  She knew that her primary responsibility was NOT TO FALL OFF!  In Bahamian racing, if a crew member falls overboard, the boat must turn around to retrieve the person, which of course means lots of lost time and dooms a boat’s hopes for winning.  Thankfully, everyone remained aboard and did well.  One of the catamarans gave me a run for my money towards the end, pressing too close for comfort, but I was able to hold steady and cross the finish line in first place.

During our local regattas, all of the races take place on a triangular course in the harbor just west of the public beach.  From here, the shoreline gives me views of the big marina, rental cottages, health clinic, a restaurant, a bar, a bakery, a few small stores, the church and the brightly colored homes dotting the Village and other areas of the island.  But today, I rest up near the shore, mast standing proudly while the rigging gently slaps against it in the wakes from passing boats.  I know I must rest.  Regatta (around here, there’s only one regatta that gets that shorthand – the National Family Island Regatta in George Town every April) is coming up in a few short months.  I will be ready.

Saturday, January 21, 2012

I was dozing in the spectacular rays of the setting sun when a flurry of activity called me to attention this evening.  The “mail boat” – one of several cargo ships contracted by the Bahamian government to deliver mail and freight to the out islands – had pulled in to the government dock on its return to Nassau.  Very graciously, the mail boat planned to use its large crane to remove my immense mast, and the mast of my sister boat, until time to re-set them for Regatta.  My captain and crew bustled around, loosing me from my current mooring and pulling me around to the other side of the mail boat.  My sister boat and I took turns and oh-so-carefully had our masts removed.  The crew closed down all the rigging, then wrapped everything tightly with a line.  My captain looped a thick rope on the crane’s hook and raised the loop around my mast up to the middle.  From below deck, one of the crew hammered loose the supports for my mast.  Then, as the mail boat captain shouted directions to the crane operator, the crane began to pull and lift, while my captain and a crew member guided my mast up, up, up.  All sixty feet leaned long over the bow of the mail boat and tilted down toward land.  About 10 men from the crews hurried to the dock to ease the mast gently onto the ground.  Oops, it bounced a bit, but my talented boat builders made all parts of me strong, so it was just fine!

From there, the guys carried my mast up onto shore where it will wait for me to join it in the boatyard for a fresh coat of paint before Regatta.  Meanwhile, my captain and other crew moved me back around to tie up at the government dock and batten down all my hatches.  It was a chilly, windy evening, but the shouts and laughter of everyone warmed every wooden plank in my body.  There is a lot of love on this island, and in this country, for sailing, and I am so thankful for the special care given to me by my owners, sailors and fans!

Blogger’s Post-Script

This beloved sailboat proceeded to rest until a few weeks ago.  The men hauled her up onto shore, set braces against the hull so she would stand upright, and proceeded to give her a fresh paint (turning themselves as blue as smurfs in the process).  They then slid her back into the water – about twelve strong men pushing from each side – and she was anchored by the dock again.  A week or two ago, the mail boat set her mast – reversing the process described in the journal above – and the crew rigged her up and placed the lead ballast.  She’s now ready for a tow to Regatta where she will race in all her glory!

 

Gorgeous Aerial Views

Welcome to a new week!  I was in Nassau over the weekend, running errands, visiting with my beau's family and attending the funeral of a friend's son.  As tragic and sad as that was - a life cut far too short - it was a good day with family and friends.  Reminders in so many ways, large and small, to make each and every day count!

The flight home from Nassau is about 30-40 minutes in a small, single-engine plane.  After dozing as we left Nassau yesterday, I roused myself for the last 15 minutes to enjoy the spectacular aerial views of the island chain.  I've posted some photos like this before, but the beauty never ceases to amaze me.  Like a snowflake, each photo is unique - the islands remain mostly the same, but the difference in tides, winds, currents, etc. make for nuanced patterns in the water on any given day.

The photos below show off the myriad colors and patterns.  Some of the aqua swirls have white in them.  Those are the very shallow parts with sand bars or the sand showing through.  The water is simply that clear and it sometimes appears as though there is no water at all!

Yesterday's weather was very windy.  (With a strong cross-wind, that also made for a very bumpy descent and landing!  Glad my local pilot makes this trip several times a day in all kinds of conditions!)  Because of the wind, the water was choppier than usual.  In some of the photos, you'll see whitecaps and waves crashing against rock from the eastern windward side.

To me, these pictures are like the swirls of color in an impressionist's painting.  Even better, because it's REAL.  And best of all, because it's my neighborhood!  :)  Enjoy the flight.

Stateside Errands and Small Plane to Paradise

I've had a whirlwind of travel lately.  A bit too much for my liking, actually.  When I'm back in Florida for visits with friends or family, and the ever-present island errands, I've described how hectic these Stateside visits can be.  My latest trip last week was the most hectic yet!

On Monday, I took a morning flight from the island to Florida.  Upon landing, I hopped in my little beater car and drove a few hours to meet friends who were visiting Florida on their kids' Spring Break.  

At dinner, with Theresa (and Kevin behind the camera).

Theresa and Kevin are both dear friends of mine from law school who have blessed the world with three sweet, rambunctious boys.

This snuggle made every minute of the drive worthwhile!

After an enjoyable overnight and morning together, I hopped back into the car on Tuesday and drove another couple of hours to spend the night with my grandparents.  A delightful visit!  Back into the car Wednesday morning and another couple hours drive back to Florida's southeast coast for island errands.  

What do I mean by that?  I mean, EVERYTHING I can't accomplish on the island itself and need.  On Wednesday afternoon, that included:

• buying a fuel filter for my beau's truck at Napa Auto Parts,
• West Marine for boat shoes (strike out)
• stocking up on meat products from an Omaha Steaks store,
• dropping by my dad's to put the meat in the freezer,
• Outdoor World for boat shoes and flip flops (score!)
• annual visit to my Stateside doctor,
• far too long in a Target store,
• back to my Dad's for chatting over a glass of wine, then blog work at the counter while he cooked dinner.

Thankfully, I see my family often these days because this visit was far too short!  After spending the night, I hugged my dad good-bye and was back on the road Thursday morning by 7:00am:

• to my Mom's to transfer the frozen meats to her freezer,
• dermatologist for my first checkup since living in hardcore sun (a good report, phew!),
• Lowe's for closet organizers,
• banking,
• PetSmart for dog food,
• IKEA for more home storage solutions,
• Bed, Bath and Beyond for miscellaneous,
• haircut, 
• dentist,
• grocery store for island food,
• meeting with tax guy,
• back to my mom's to consolidate packing, check computer and get ready to return home the next day.

Normally, these errand-packed days would include a trip to the veterinarian within 48 hours of departure to complete Angel's immigration paperwork.  However, on this relatively short trip, I'd simply left her at home on the island with my beau.

The next morning, Friday, I loaded my trunk and back seat and hit the road again.  First, was a several-hour appointment at Home Depot with my mother to complete a custom order for bathroom cabinets/sinks/counters/faucets/hardware for the island.  Then I hugged my mother good-bye and headed to the private hangar where I would take a shared charter service flight back to the island.

I unloaded everything onto a scale in the hangar - 235 pounds of stuff!  Given that I am only allowed 35 pounds before paying $1.50 per pound overage, this was an expensive trip.  However, I was stocking up for several months, and it was still cheaper than buying it in Nassau or shipping it over from the States.

When Stateside, I mostly raid my mother's closet, so this pile doesn't even include much personal packing.

After I was all checked in, my brother, who works nearby, met me for lunch at a restaurant down the street.  Again, too quick a visit, but better than nothing and we've enjoyed seeing each other a lot these days!

After lunch, I headed back to the waiting room next to the hangar until time to depart.  No counters, no intercoms, no security lines, no ramps - everything small and simple.  A staff member led us on a short walk outside to the plane.

A single engine Caravan.

 Yup, that's it!  I climbed up the 3-step ladder attached to the door and entered the plane.

Nine seats, plus pilot and co-pilot seats.  On this flight, I sat in the single seat behind the pilot (left side).

If you think this is a small plane, trust me when I say that it is not!  I suppose I'm comfortable from having grown up in small planes with my family and making this particular flight frequently.

Anyway, we all got buckled in and took off.  Finally, I was heading home.

Flying southeast and leaving the Florida coastline behind.

After flying about 90 minutes, we landed in Andros, the largest island in the Bahamas.  The island where I live is too small to boast a customs/immigration office, so I have to clear in through an island, like Andros, that does have such an office.
Entering the building, I waited my turn in line to see the Bahamian Immigration officer.  

I enter the Bahamas on a tourist visa.  In the past, visitors could get months at a time on their visa, even as long as six or nine months.  But, like many places, Bahamian immigration seems to be tightening, and I've been denied long stays on a couple of occasions.  (That means, I return to the States earlier than planned, then re-enter the Bahamas on a new visa.)  In part, it depends on whether a Customs and an Immigration officer are on duty, or if the Customs officer is serving both roles because Customs does not have authority to grant beyond 30 days.  Ultimately, it's all at the discretion of the Immigration officer and his or her mood that day!

This time, I don't have any Stateside trips scheduled until August, so I asked for 5 months, smiled and held my breath.  The Immigration officer carefully thumbed through the stamps in my passport before simply stamping his approval.  Yay!

I contained my excitement and turned to the next podium to see the Customs agent.  She formally started to ask me standard questions (where was I going, was this my first time).  In answering, I chatted about going to Regatta (shorthand for the national sailing championship next month) and cheering on our local boats.  She broke into a smile, wistfully exclaimed she wished she could go this year, directed me to dance enough for both of us, and that concluded her questioning!

Back outside, I climbed onto the plane and settled in for the short ride the rest of the way home.

And THIS is where things turn truly magnificent - the aerial views of the turquoise swirls of water, white swirls of sand and intricate chain of small islands are simply indescribable.  These pictures - taken on a hazy day and through reflective glass - can't even begin to do it justice, but I'll let them speak for themselves . . .

As we neared home, I peered down at neighboring islands, where various friends live, recognizing those particular islands by their shapes, position in the chain and structures built upon them.  Finally, we descended even lower and approached the 3,000 foot airstrip.

I told you the island was small!  From the air, the landing strip seems to take up most of it!

There's no airport or Air Traffic Control, so the pilot just scans the sky and listens to the radio for other pilots in the area, as well as radioing his approach.  Landing a plane is no small feat in any conditions.  However, landing on a short runway, especially on a windy day with strong cross-winds, has terrified more than a few pilots new to the area.  Experienced pilots crab their way on in, and landings are usually fairly smooth and uneventful - just the way we like 'em!

Home, sweet home.  (The blur in the photo is from the moving propeller.)

We touched down, and I smiled.  Climbing out of the plane, I saw a variety of friends at the airport, giving rides to their family and friends, sending stuff on an outgoing plane, picking up stuff from an incoming plane - it's quite the hub of activity.  I saw two friends who came to get stuff I was carrying for them.  I also quickly ran over to hail the return of dear neighbors who, after a long absence, had just arrived by private plane and were piling their immense cargo into their truck.

Similarly, my beau and I loaded my haul into the back of his truck, then headed home where Angel noisily greeted me with squeals and yips, and I happily began the process of unpacking, putting everything away and settling into home.